Pinecil is a portable soldering iron with computer controlled temperature, sleep modes, motion detection, and allows many options for power from AC supplies (USB-C, DC Barrel) to external tool/LiPo batteries. You may already have a power supply that works. It also has the intended use of being a RISC-V development device using a breakout board. The Pinecil has evolved over the years from a 60W device into the latest rendition, the V2, which supports 24V/88W and includes the new PINE64 designed shorter tip.
Note: Other irons only care if they can solder. The Pinecil is held to an additional standard; how well can it meet the needs of the open source community as a RISC-V development tool. It includes hardware features not found on other soldering irons such as BLE Bluetooth in the V2 in order to support FOSS community feature requests for both fun and science.
There are no PINE64 Pinecils sold on AliExpress. They are not made by PINE64. There are no authorized resellers on AliExpress. Some manufacturer has copied the PINE64 company name, trademark and Pinecone logo and is selling a product made to look like Pinecil through many store fronts, but it is not an authentic. They use a different type of box, i.e., a blue or red box. They are fake copies and do not go through the same quality control as PINE64. It is unclear what type of chips or poor quality cloned chips are used in them. They are not recommended. Genuine new PINE64 Pinecil only comes in a black handle color with a green silicone thumb grip. The original V1 always came in a black box. This model was discontinued and has not been made or sold by PINE64 or authorized resellers since July 2022.
The current official Pinecil (a.k.a. V2 model) comes in a white box (see Pictures), it has a black color handle with a green silicone thumb grip. If you receive anything that has the PINE64 brand name and Pinecone and does not look like described, it is a fake copy that was not made or authorized by PINE64 or the Pine Store Ltd (see Authenticity Checker below, all real PINE64 Pinecils purchased after Aug. 2, 2022 should pass the checker if they are genuine).
Pinecil V2 comes with a unique internal ID/Serial number. This allows people to check if the Pinecil V2 is Authentic.
To be more sure, update to the newest stable Ralimâs IronOS and check again, see Firmware.
Clean new cartridges/tips with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove factory residue before installing (even if it looks clean). If you have no IPA, at least try a paper towel, especially clean the white end with the two silver electric contacts (do not use water; it could get into the seam line on the white end). This resolves issues with jumping temperatures or random no-tip symbol from poor electric contact.
Do not try to bend the two internal contacts, they are made of a thin stiff spring metal and could break (not soft copper), but you could wipe them with IPA (including the small PCB pad below the contacts).
1. Install the tip: The Pinecil comes with a separate heating element, the tip.
Remove the screw from the front top-side of handle. Then, gently push the tip all the way back until the wide collar/guard is touching the front of the plastic (see link::File:Pinecilv2-1.jpg[photo]).
Gently tighten or loosen this screw to install or swap the tip. (careful, tiny screws break easy, if tip does not fall out, itâs tight enough)
The bottom front screw should not touch the tip, it only holds the handle together (see Fasteners).
Always unplug before swapping tips if you have multiple tips.
2. Supply power: the USB-C port, connected to any supply, is enough power to show the display screen, but not necessarily enough to heat the tip.
USB port at 5 volts (i.e., laptop) shows DC Low, this is enough for firmware updates and to view the menu, but not to run the soldering iron.
See Power section for details on power options. QC 12V phone chargers will not work, as they are too weak.
3. Heat the tip: plug Pinecil into an appropriate power supply.
Clicking [+] starts the tip heating.
The detailed display option shows power draw, current temperature, supply voltage, and time until sleep mode starts.
Adjust the target temperature with further clicks of [+] and [-] buttons.
Wait a few seconds for the regular display to return, then hold down [-] for a moment to turn the heat off.
You can observe the temperature measurement go up and down. Certain settings involve holding down both buttons (see GitHub IronOS for details on firmware settings).
4. Using the Settings Menu:
To check the firmware version, hold down the [-] button. It will display something like “v2.19.A3BBABC 13-07-22”. This is the firmware number and release date, the date is July 13, 2022 in the example.
Clicking [-] when heat is off steps through main categories menus to control a variety of settings, see Getting started with menus section.
Clicking [-] also returns to the regular display of temperature and supply voltage (this view varies if you activate detailed idle). At other times it may show power draw.
Click [-] to scroll to the the main menu section desired (i.e., User Interface). Then click [+] button to change various internal settings. Then click [-] again to go to the next item in the sub-menu.
5. Important notes:
The iron will “sleep”, switching to a lower temperature, after it has been put down for a short time, and heat up again when it is picked up.
Calibration of the Tip temperature is usually not necessary and should only be done if the tip is off by +/- 5 °C or temperature is behaving oddly. See instructions to calibrate the tip in the firmware on GitHub IronOS.
For Safety, unplug the soldering Iron when not in use or left unattended.
To heat up the tip, we need a power supply that can provide at least 12V 3A to run. This is the bare minimum. Pinecil will heat slowly at only 12V/3A. To maximize performance, higher Volts/Amps/Watts is recommended (see Power supplies).
Option 1: a USB-C supply that can negotiate up to such a voltage. For good performance and soldering experience, a USB-C PD65W, 20V, 3+ A charger is recommended (suitable for most users).
Option 2: a supply with a DC 5525 barrel connector (+ pos center, - neg outside) that supplies anywhere from 12V-21V, 3+ amps (V1 Pinecil) or 12V-24V, 3+ amps (V2 Pinecil).
Option 3: use a battery, i.e., an 18V-21V tool Battery with a Power Wheels adapter, and a cable to plug into the Pinecil DC5525 barrel jack.
You may have a suitable supply already that could be used, (see Power supplies).
While 12V-3A will work, it will not heat the tip as quickly and efficiently as a PD65W-20V USB-C charger or a higher rated DC barrel charger.
See warnings about using random DC barrel chargers, not all of them have the correct polarity or DC 5525 style plug and some may be too high of voltage which could damage the Pinecil.
Main Settings Menu: updated list is found in the firmware repository Settings Menu
Power settings: settings related to power, battery cells, input voltage.
Soldering settings: settings for soldering such as, boost temps, increments for temperature change
Sleep mode: power & tip saving, such as sleep mode, sleep temperature, and shutdown modes, motion sensitivity
User interface: settings such as, units C/F, display orientation, button reversal, animation speed, brightness, boot logo duration
Advanced settings: assorted catchall for settings that donât fit elsewhere or settings that require some thought before use. Restore default/factory settings is here. It will not change the firmware version, but rather resets the menu back to IronOS defaults. This is good to do after a major firmware update as settings may have been altered and need to be re-selected/customized again to work as expected.
Hidden Debug Menus: also available, see GitHub/IronOS
Using a power supply that is at the higher end of the Voltage/Amps requirements will give faster heating and performance.
Any USB-C power supply that supports PD (Power Delivery) and has at least the minimum Volt/amps listed should work. The USB-C PD65W, 3.25A, 20V is recommended, but a lower PD45W will also work on V1.
Also, any quality “center positive” DC barrel 12-21V battery or power supply using a DC 5525 jack (5.5mm outer diameter, 2.5mm post) see the video on center-positive polarity. It is sometimes better to get a pre-used name brand laptop brick Dell/Lenovo/HP etc., over a cheap brick which could have voltage spikes that damage the Pinecil or other electronics.
V2 can handle a DC barrel supply up to 24V without modifying the PCB (always check polarity, must be a center-positive jack).
Any typical tool battery 18V-21V will work, see the tool battery section for details.
QC3.0 phone chargers: not recommended, it is weaker in power and does not auto-negotiate like USB-C PD does. QC3 requires manually setting the voltage in the Power settings. A minimum of 3 amps is needed and many QC phone chargers are only able to provide a low 12V 1.5amp, limiting Pinecil to about 17W of thermal capability which is weak and slow. It may not even start to heat, but if it does, it may get repeated Thermal Runaway message (this means the weak power causes Pinecil to auto-shutdown continuously).
QC is more problematic for V2 which comes with the Pine64 designed shorter 6.2 ohm resistance tip. This means the V2 needs more power than the V1. Switching to the longer tys100 style tip in V2 would reduce the power requirement a little, but then you lose a small amount of heat speed/performance.
Magnetic tip USB-C cables are not recommended, and are not USB compliant.
older QC2.0 chargers are not supported in IronOS firmware (only QC3.0 and PD type).
Some QC power adapters only allow a limited time for QC negotiation, otherwise voltage will fall back to 5V. To address this, starting from firmware v2.16+, there is a PD timeout setting (in 100ms steps) which allows QC negotiation to start earlier. Change this only if you are having issues with your QC charger (lower the PD timeout to see if that will help QC charger work). (Power Settings > PD timeout)
This enables some QC adapters to work (i.e., some Baseus QC chargers). Alternately, lowering the number may result in problems with PD negotiation on some PD type adapters that are slower to negotiate. If you switch between QC & PD adapters, you may have to change this setting.
For certain QC adapters, lowering the PD timeout value to 15 could help, and most PD adapters will also still work using 15. If a PD charger does not work at 15, then increase the timeout (PD default is 20 = 20x 100ms = 2 seconds).
Note that some QC chargers simply will not work, are too weak, or cheaply made (PD USB-C chargers are recommended over QC only type)
As long as you do the following you should be fine:
Donât plug in something that is higher voltage than the official ratings for V1 (21v limit) or V2 (24V limit).
If using a DC barrel charger, check the Polarity first, it must be center positive (see Video)
Use a known good quality cable that will not short. There are low cost $3 cable testers that test for shorts.
If the Pinecil heats up very slowly or gets Thermal Runaway message, then the charger is too weak, get something else.
Phone chargers are too weak, most are only 12V 1.5 amps which is too low and prevent proper Pinecil operation.
QC 2.0 not supported by IronOS firmware (only QC 3.0 and PD type).
most PC & laptop ports donât work as they are only 5V which is good enough for simple Firmware updates but not to provide the constant higher power a “resistance” type of soldering Iron needs to maintain heat.
Check the specs on your laptop/PC ports and charger ports, most of the time when it doesnât work, itâs because the rating is very low on it and not designed to power an Iron (check specified Watts, Volts, Amps on the port and see if they meet the minimum needed by Pinecil).
Silicone USB-C cables are recommended if possible, they are more flexible and heat resistance. They do not melt or smoke if touched briefly with an iron compared with most other cords.
Sure, if there are two PD65 20V chargers that are similar in price, and one is GaN, this is generally a good chioce.
Older style chargers could become dangerously hot, whereas GaN can stay cooler, even in a smaller size.
If the GaN charger senses a potentially dangerous condition, i.e., overcurrent spikes, the chips are designed to go into a cycle-by-cycle sleep state, protecting the device. Over current protection in GAN.
Anker 737 Power Bank (only EPR battery on the market presently).
note
a PD3.1 240W cable needs to be purchased if you want the full 28V performance. EPR PD3.1 chargers are backwards compatible and work for all USB-C devices. They do up to 28V on PD3.1 devices,e.g, Pinecil V2, and will do 20V and less for older USB-C devices that donât need as much power. Lower cables will also work but then the charger will only deliver a max of 20V.
Anker 737 28V-140W EPR (must use EPR-PD 3.1 240W cable if you want the full 28V, otherwise it will provide a lower PD20V)
Blitzwolf BW-P1 10400mAh QC2
Insignia 80W 26,800mAh NS-PWLB80
Intenso 7332330 Powerbank PD 10000 - External Battery PowerDelivery & QuickCharge3 - 10000mAh Powerbank, the Pinecil shows 12V and about 17W when heating up, using USB C PD (Red Silicone Pinecil cable)
Marbero M87 30W PD 3.0
Charmast C2032 65W Power Bank, maximum power at 20V is only available from the IN/OUT USB-C port, the OUT USB-C port delivers only 12V.
Baseus BiPow 10000mAh 18W PD&QC3.0
INIU Power Bank 65 W 25000 mAh - Make sure to use the 65W port
Generally a center-positive laptop charger with more than 3 Amps and 19V-24V will work on Pinecil V2 (video to check polarity). Plugging in a DC barrel charger with the wrong polarity symbol on the back will break the Pinecil.
Avoid Universal power supplies and cheap off-brand ones with low quality control. <tl_lim> said “try to avoid such universal power. The output contains sharp voltage spike and can kill the Pinecil. There are already several cases reported by support team that Pinecils are damaged by such power supply.”
Read the 2 answers in this link that give an idea of why using cheap DC power supplies could damage electronics due to switching noise/voltage spikes. Cheap DC bricks donât have all the extra protections needed, go through little quality control, and most have no certification stamps related to industry testing.
DC5525 barrel plug will plug in directly (5.5mmm x 2.5mm) but if you have a different plug, there are many adapters to convert it to 5.5mm, 2.5mm (donât force a different plug into Pinecil, it will Break the barrel port), and possibly push back and break the positive pin connection inside Pinecil where the DC barrel attaches to the PCB.
DC barrel 24V is supported on V2 (most V1 can only do a max of 21V unless a modification is performed to cut the trace to the Vbus and enable 24V safely (see Ralimâs IronOS DebugMenu for details))
It is recommended to use a quality brand DC barrel charger. Often a used name-brand laptop charger (Dell, HP, Toshiba, etc..) that gets some QC testing is a better option than a no-name cheap DC barrel charger. The cheap ones might have large voltage spikes that are out of the 21V range for Pinecil V1 and 24V range of Pinecil V2 causing the Mosfet and Buck regulator to break.
These two parts are low cost and not too hard to replace if your Pinecil breaks from a poor quality DC charger (see the datasheets section for links to get replacement chips).
Members have experienced broken Pinecils after using low quality off-brand DC barrel chargers and had to replace both the Mosfet and Buck Converter. Sometimes itâs just one part, but itâs best to order a couple of both as they are usually under $0.35 each.
Some people print their own 3D adapters for tool batteries.
Must use a 5.5mm x 2.5 mm DC barrel Plug. Forcing an an incorrect size, i.e., DC 5521 will break the connector as seen here (if it doesnât go in, it doesnât fit).
If you use a random DC barrel charger, first Check the Polarity of the plug to make sure it is Center Positive before using it. (how to check polarity). Using reverse polarity DC plug will destroy the Pinecil.
Get a Power Wheels Adapter like this for Ryobi, then splice/connect it to a DC5525 Pigtail to complete connection to Pinecil.
To prevent battery overdrain, add this Pinecil setting which works for all the 18-21V tool batteries typical for Dewalt, etc.. Some tool brands have the overdrain protection already; it doesnât hurt to also set this in Pinecil or in case you donât know if your brand/type has it or not. Power source = 5S, Minimum Voltage = 3.3V
Hint: only if you change to a different size battery do you need to alter this. If you only ever switch between a USB-C charger and the tool battery, you could just leave the 5S/3.3V setting. Overdrain means using the battery past the point where you can charge it again. Many tool batteries have internal protection to prevents this, but some brands donât have it (unfortunately, unlike most brands, Dewalt puts it into the tool & not the battery). Setting it in Pinecil is an extra safety setting in case you are not sure and want to preserve batteries.
Limited usability:
Nintendo Switch AC Adapter (USB-C wall-wart) (PD@15V). Does not work well on V2 (needs 3+amps). Works on V1, but slower heat speed because itâs low amps and only 15V.
Notebook Docking Station HP Thunderbolt Dock 230W G2 (PD@20V) (had problems with lower firmware versions, but works fine Pinecil firmware: 2.15 and DockingStation firmware: 1.0.69.1)
Smartphone Charger Samsung EP-TA20EWE (QC2@9V)
Smartphone Charger Google Pixel G1000-US (PD@9V)
Notebook AC Adapter Delta Electronics ADP-65JH BB (DC@19V) and ADP-90CD DB (1.7x 4.8mm need adapter, tip is not DC5525)
Notebook AC Adapter LITEON PA-1700-02 (DC@18.5V, 65W) (tip is 1.7mmx5.5mm would need adapter for DC5525)
Nillkin 63W USB Car Charger Quick Charge 3.0 PD (Pinecil Firmware: 2.14.2425902)
QC3@9V/12V and PD@15V work, PD@20V doesnât
PD@20V works fine when using PDC004-20V or ZY12PDN on dc jack (DC@20V, limit: 45W)
Zendure Power bank like this one does not work. It does not appear to be USB-C PD 3.0 compliant. Only the USB-A port seems to work at lower QC voltage. It does not deliver USB-C 20V-5amps or USB-C 20V -3amps.
Smartphone Charger RAVpower 30W Dual USB Turbo Wall Charger (Should provide QC3@9V/12V, but only provides 5 V on both ports)
Sabrent HB-B7C3 USB3 hub, 7 data ports, 3 charge ports, 60W supply – does not negotiate higher voltages.
Generally, a higher power charger is better; a 20V power supply will give better performance than a 15V charger. The Pinecil needs a minimum of 3 amps and will work with higher amps charger. However, do not exceed the volts rating for V1 and V2 models or damage to components could occur (see the side of the Pinecil handle for the maximum volts).
PINE64 officially states the Pinecil V2 will support up to 24V-88W. Tentatively, the V2 also unofficially supports 28V-140W EPR/PD3.1 USB-C chargers with certified EPR 240W USB-C cables.
DC barrel power is 24V-5A maximum on V2. This allows headroom for higher spikes that happen in DC bricks or off-brand bench supplies. It is not a smart charger like a USB-C charger which uses chips to negotiate with devices like the Pinecil.
EPR USB-C is new to the market in 2022. The first wave of these smart chargers are 28V/140W, are more expensive, and require a PD 3.1/240W cable to fully allow the 28V power to V2.
EPR is backwards compatible for all USB-C devices. EPR chargers/cables can be used for everything else USB-C as well.
Pinecil is not a USB-C tester: when the detailed screen is enabled on Pinecil, note it shows estimates and are at best +-10%. The watts shown on detailed mode are a big picture number for convenience and debugging various chargers used. It is not going to be as accurate as an external tester. Use external metering for comparisons or testing (external testers also cause a small reduction in Watts).
Many Quick Charge or QC3 phone chargers are not recommended as Pinecil V2 is rated for a minimum of 3 Amps or more to work properly (see Pine Store Official rating on power ports). Most QC 12V phone chargers are only 1.5 Amps, this will lead to Thermal Runaway or Undervoltage messages because of weak power (older QC2 type is not supported in the IronOS firmware at all).
On Aug. 2, 2022, Pinecil V2 was released with improved hardware & accessories. It retains the same ergonomics and design as the original Pinecil, and will work with any accessories you already have including existing handles, cases, and tips. It comes with a green color silicone grip versus the light blue finger grip from Pinecil V1. It also includes one of PINE64âs newly designed shorter 6.2 ohm tips. By reducing the tip length and resistance from 8 to 6.2 ohms, it allows greater performance and and faster heating (short tips are potentially 64W @ 20V compared to 8ohm normal tips which allow a max of 50W to Pinecil). Pinecil V2 is officially rated for 12V-24V.
Key changes in V2: new processor (BL706), higher maximum input voltage (24V versus V1âs 21V rating), support for measuring tip resistance, allows automatic detection of 6.2 vs 8 ohm tips. A notable improvement is the new BL706 RISC-V processor from Bouffalo. It is similar to the BL602 in the Pinenut. The BL706 features Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE / Zigbee); future IronOS firmware releases will expose features over BLE. This is not trivial work, but as people contribute to the opensource code of GitHub/IronOS, BLE options will expand. There is also tentative support for USB-PD3.1 EPR (28V, 140W chargers), Ralimâs IronOS supports V2 running with USB-C EPR-28V. EPR/PD3.1 is not officially acknowledged yet by the Pine Store. Many brands of EPR USB-C chargers are confirmed by members to work on Pinecil V2 at 28V and this results in faster heating performance over PD 20V chargers see short test here.
Things staying the same in V2: it still uses a RISC-V processor, but adds noticeable upgrades to the hardware. GPIO is broken out on USB-C for creating your own projects, same pinout as Pinecil V1, same great feel, including the rubber grip, works with all existing tips, same DC input + USB-C input connections, and compatibility with existing clear or black handles.
In the V2 handleâs side label, the 88W figure comes from a 6.5ohm tip calculation. The reason for using 6.5 instead of 6.2 for the new short tips calculation is due to tolerance during manufacturing, and leaving a conservative margin of error (actual tips appear to be 6.2 ohms). V2 set max voltage is listed as 24V because this was the value used during design and component selection.
Pinecil V1
For the first manufacture batch (October 2020, order number 158xxx) of the Pinecil, the copper ring connecting the earth screw to the tip was omitted as the engineering team found the TS100 design lacking. For the second round onward, an improved design copper ring has been included as standard, and is also included with the replacement clear and black handles. For normal operation of the iron, omission of the ring does not impact itâs operation. If you are working with ESD components, you will need it in order to ground the iron tip via the earth screw at the back of the iron.
The first batch of Pinecils were rated 12-24v @ 65W. After some heated discussion on the discussion group, it was decided that it would be downgraded to 12-21V @ 60W, due to concern over the connection of the DC jack to the USB-PD chip, which has a recommended maximum of 21v, and absolute maximum of 28v.
Hint: people have replaced V1 mosfet using the better rated one from the newer V2 datasheets (HSM4313 has same footprint and higher rating), see V2 section for MOSFET.
Only use one power port at a time (USB or DC barrel)
USB type C: PD 12V-20V 3A and QC 3.0 12V-20V 3A (magnetic tip USB-C cables are not recommended, and not USB compliant)
Barrel Jack: DC5525, 12V-24V, minimum 3amps.
Trying to use an incorrect barrel jack, i.e., DC5521 will BREAK the connector (if it doesnât go in easy, it doesnât fit).
Recommend operating voltage 12-24V, but a 12V USB-C charger will not perform as well or heat as fast as a USB-C PD65W/20V/3amp charger.
Tentative support: EPR 140W/28V PD3.1 chargers + EPR cables are theoretically supported in hardware and IronOS firmware.
EPR is new technology in 2022. Theoretically Pinecil could get a max of 28V and 126W using EPR chargers & EPR cables (natural loss of 140W to 126W due to Tip ohms).
Bleeding edge users are using/testing this.
EPR is potentially the fastest/highest performance possible for V2; officially Pine Store states 12V-24V, 88W.
Originals screws are Phillips (source): two M2x3mm at the front, and one M2x4mm is the ground screw near the [-] minus button.
The bottom-front screw only holds the handle together and does not touch the tip, hence is a shorter m2x 3mm.
Thumb screws are popular upgrades: an M2 x 4mm thumb screw could replace both the front screen-side Tip holder screw and the ground screw in the rear of the handle.
It was found that an M2x3mm thumb screw for the tip is a hair too short, and just grazes the Tip and the longer m2 x 4mm is better on top.
note
If the screw is too long (for example with a length of 5mm) a metal file can be used lightly to shorten it a small amount. Stainless steel is recommended as the softer aluminum screws could mushroom as you tighten down the tip screw too much or over time.
Clean new cartridges/tips with 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove factory residue before installing (avoid strange behavior from poor electric contact). If you have none, try to at least wipe down the new cartridge with a clean towel especially the 2 contacts at the rear white end (do not use water, as it could get into the small white seam line).
Do not bend the two tiny internal contacts, they are thin spring metal and may break.
Only use one port, USB-C or the DC barrel, but Never both at the same time. Damage will occur to PC/Laptop/Pinecil!
If using a DC barrel brick for power, do not use more than 24V for Pinecil V2 and not more than 21V for Pinecil V1 (a special end-user modification is possible for V1 which allows it to use up to 24V safely).
Upon receipt, or buying a used Pinecil, one may want to check the following:
The display turns on when 5-21V is supplied (V2 models can do 24V).
Use the video linked to make sure the DC barrel charger is Center Positive before plugging it into Pinecil. Several users have accidentally plugged incorrect center-negative chargers into Pinecil which immediately breaks it because it is the wrong type of charger (this is sometimes repairable, see live community chat).
Note that 5v shows DC low and is not high enough to run Pinecil. 5V is only enough for firmware update and to see the menu.
It gets full power.
20V from a 20V capable USB-C PD charger or power from DC barrel charger that is the appropriate specifications. The screen displays the voltage from the charger.
Check both orientations of the USB-C cable (try to flip it if one way doesnât work).
Check for new firmware updates, see the firmware section.
Note: do not connect the DC barrel at the same time as a USB-C cable. Pinecil was designed to only have one cable plugged in at a time. You could damage/break the PC and Pinecil doing this.
V1 and V2 used different flasher apps to load firmware onto the Pinecil, see the Firmware section.
Updating firmware requires a data capable USB cable connected to a PC/laptop.
Check that both buttons work
[-] to enter menu or decrease temperature, long press [-] to get the software version info or to turn off heating
[+] to turn on heating or select a menu item
The displayed text rotates according to gravity when orientation is set to Automatic
User interface -> Display orientation -> Automatic
Re-tin the tip before storing is advised to prevent oxidation.
Check that it heats up with an installed tip, and stops increasing when it reaches the set point.
This may draw up to ~3A, make sure the power supply can provide a minimum of 3amps or more.
Minor overshoot may occur, but, disconnect power if the temperature keeps going up higher without user input and check with the live volunteer Pinecil channel.
Do a simple test is to see if the iron will melt solder at approximately the expected temperature for the alloy of solder being tested.
If no direct measurement is possible, set it to ~230°C and see if it just about melts SAC (lead-free) solder (~190°C for leaded). This may be more if the room is cold.
If there are multiple tips, wipe all of them with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a dry clean towel and check that they all heat up.
If the tip moves a little while using it, try to hold Pinecil with the screen facing the side or screen downwards. Members found that if the screen is up and the screw loosens during use, then the tip wobbles a little. Changing holding angles helps the tip press against the solid barrel instead of wobbling on the stub of the small screw.
Pinecil is designed to use only 1 power port at any time. Only the USB-C cable should be plugged in during firmware updates. Never attempt to use both rear ports at the same time or the PC and Pinecil will be damaged.
right
The firmware that comes with the Pinecil is open source Ralimâs IronOS. Itâs a good idea to check for updates regularly as development is very active and there may be enhancements or bug fixes.
Depending on whether you have a Pinecil V1 or V2, they are updated using different flashers since they have completely different MCU chip (brains). The V1 is any Pinecil sold up to July 2022 (has a blue thumb grip). The V2 is any Pinecil sold after Aug 1, 2022 (has a green thumb grip). If you donât have the two models mentioned, then you might not have an authentic Pinecil. This aritcle is designed and tested on authentic Pinecils only.
Go to the appropriate section below depending on if you have a V1 or V2 model.
Long hold down [-] to see the current firmware version installed.
It is very hard to brick a Pinecil doing a firmware update because of the firmware is in ROM. Usually, just re-flashing it fixes it. Even if the other firmware caused the screen to go black, one could connect, put the Pinecil into flash mode, and flash again to an older or newer version of firmware or a beta version.
Pinecil V1 only uses *.hex files for both firmware and boot logo art.
Pinecil V2 uses only *.bin files for firmware.
note
Loading boot logo art onto the V2 (BL706 MCU chip) is not yet possible. Volunteers are looking into this on both GitHub Blisp and GitHub IronOS. If you would like to see the progress or help with the code see Boot Logo Art ticket
Do not use the DC barrel jack while updating firmware or you may destroy your PC and Pinecil.
Both V1 and V2 connect to the PC/laptop and enter the Flash mode the same way for updating purposes:
Plug one end of the USB cable to the PC/laptop.
Long hold the [-] button before plugging the USB-C cable into the back of the Pinecil. Keep holding down the [-] for ~10-15 seconds after plugging in the cable, then release the button.
Screen should be black/empty which means Pinecil is in Flashing Mode. If you have issues, try again, do not plug the USB-C cable into Pinecil until you first press & hold the [-] button. Flip the cable over or try another port/cable/PC if you still have issues.
Unlike irons from other brands, Pinecil will not show in the PC as a USB data drive. On Windows, you will hear a single beep when connected in flash mode.
Blisp is a CLI (command line interface or terminal) and needs a program like the Powershell, which is already installed on most Windows PCs. For using Blisp only a couple basic terminal commands are needed, such as cd to change directories (folders).
Enter this command C:\> Set-ExecutionPolicy RemoteSigned to enable powershell permissions. It only needs to be done one time and should persist on reboots.
Check that Powershell has correct permissions,enter Get-ExecutionPolicy -list
Next download the newest firmware, release here. Scroll down to the bottom of the page, under Assets, get the Pinecilv2.zip.
Right click on all zip files > properties, and check “Unblock” if present to unblock them, then extract the Blisp zip and the Pinecilv2 zip screenshot of Unblock here. If you donât see “Unblock” then keep going.
From the Pinecilv2 folder you extracted above, copy the Pinecilv2_EN.bin (English) file into the Blisp folder (same place as the Blisp.exe). Other languages are available, substitute the Pinecil_EN.bin file for the language file desired (follow 2-letter international language code). The Pinecil Zip can now be deleted, only the single BIN file in the language you want is used.
Run powershell as administrator.
Now, connect the Pinecil V2 to the PC: hold down the [-] Before plugging the cable to the back of Pinecil. See (Flash Mode section for details).
Screen on Pinecil should be black/empty before proceeding; it means you are in the correct Flash mode. If you are curious, it will connect as a PORT COM device in Device Manager. If your screen is not black, then repeat the connect to PC above. If necessary, change cables or ports, or try a different PC/laptop.
Use cd to change to the Blisp folder (location of blisp.exe and Pinecil_EN.bin).
#example change to location of blisp folder
PS C:\> cd G:\Users\name\Downloads\blisp\
Execute this line (can replace the EN file name with the language bin selected).
Type the .\ (dot and slash) or it will fail to find the files!
Joricâs BLE API may be the easiest to get started with as it does not require anything to be installed. It runs off Chromium based browsers (since they are capable of BLE GATT) and shows a graph of Temperature/Watts (MacOS/iPhone and firefox donât work bc they do not have BLE GATT). Hint: some Chromium browsers like Vivaldi, may need to check chrome://flags/ and enable bluetooth options.
PineSAM is BLE Settings and Menus and will run on any major OS. It allows change of all settings, and can be controlled from Mac, Linux, Windows, iPhone, Android and more; needs python script running as back end. For easy phone connection just open a browser address http://<ipaddress of PC running script>:8080/ (see PineSAM website for details)
PineFlash is a GUI updater that downloads firmware and flashes. Download the easy premade binary for [https://github.com/Spagett1/PineFlash#desktop_computer-install-options Linux here].
. For MacOS, currently there is a 2-step script that will build PineFlash.
. If you have issues with Pineflash, then use Blisp below.
This is a CLI that runs in a terminal console. Get the latest zip file for Linux or Mac. The main page has background info and there are instructions if you want to build it from code instead of using the easier premade executable.
Extract the Blisp zip, and using a terminal, cd to the blisp folder.
Extract the zip file and put Pinecilv2_EN.bin (for English) into the Blisp folder (same place as the Blisp executable). Other languages are available, substitute the *EN.bin file for the language file desired (use the 2-digit international language code). If you have the Pinecil Zip, the rest could be deleted, only the single BIN file is needed. Select the appropriate two-letter code for your language. If you accidentally flash *.dfu file on your Pinecil, it will not boot or work - be sure to only use the BIN file.
Connect the V2 to the PC and enter Flash mode: hold down the [-] before plugging the cable to the back of Pinecil. See ([[#Flash_Mode| Flash Mode section for details]]). If you are curious on Linux, it will connect as a serial ttyACM USB ACM type device.
Screen on Pinecil should be black/empty before proceeding or you are not in Flash mode.
Blisp must have executable permission set.
cd to the Blisp folder and ls -l to check permissions of blisp.
Double check that the command is typed exactly, e.g., in Windows, the dot\slash .\ can not be skipped in Powershell.
For Windows, instead of PowerShell, try the cmd.exe (right click, run as administrator) and move into the blisp folder; example commands to move to folders.
Two different samples work when the cmd.exe is run as administrator. First move into the folder you have both blisp.exe and Pinecil_EN.bin. Then execute one of the following:
Often, updating issues are related to the USB cable, or the port on the PC does not support a connection to Pinecil, try:
flipping the cable over, different cables. Try both use-C to C cables and also USB-C to USB-A cables (your cable may be power-only and not able to do firmware data transfers). All working USB-C to USB-C cables can do data transfer but some USB-A cables can only do power and will not work for firmware updates because they can not do data transfers.
Try other ports on the PC/laptop, or a different machine. There have been issues with some laptop USB-C ports not negotiating correctly, but the flashing worked using the USB-A port. Try a different OS if you can access one, some people who had issues on Linux for example were able to flash on Windows. Note that some virtual environments might have an issue with flashing to USB ports.
Donât use a hub, connect directly to a port, ports on the back of a PC may sometimes be better as they are directly connected to the motherboard.
Follow the Flash mode instructions and make sure the [-] button is held down BEFORE plugging in the cable to the back of the Pinecil. And donât release for ~10 seconds.
If that doesnât work try holding down the [-] the whole time (donât let go of the button).
Blisp flashers are from Gamieeâs open source Blisp code here. It is only an updater for the BL706 MCU on the Pinecil V2. It is separate from the firmware files needed which are in located in GitHub Ralimâs IronOS. The firmware contains all the menus, functions, and languages, and the flasher is the tool to push the firmware onto the MCU chip (the brain). Different MCUâs need different flasher tools.
If you have issues completing the update, try joining the live Pinecil community chat to get tips from volunteers.
If there was any special work-around you had to do to get the Blisp Flasher to work, or could not get it to work at all, post an Issue in Github Blisp.
If you are running Windows in a virtual machine and the process fails, make sure you have Microsoft Visual C++ 2015-2022 installed.
All firmware releases and betas are located in the GitHub Ralimâs IronOS here. If you would like to add enhancements/features to the IronOS (firmware that runs the Pinecil) or have an issue, please look at the GitHub documents or submit an issue ticket. It is recommended to read through all the GitHub IronOS documents first as they may have the answers. Screen menus and troubleshooting is documented as well on IronOS and maintained by volunteers.
Pinecil V1 uses a *.dfu file type for firmware. The newer Pinecil V2 only uses *.bin firmware type files.
Pinecil V1 models were sold until July 2022 and then discontinued.
Boot logo art: the same flashers used to install IronOS firmware can be used to install the art. Boot logo art will not overwrite the firmware, it resides in a separate space on the chip.
important
Do not use the DC barrel jack while updating firmware or you may destroy your PC and Pinecil.
Follow these instructions on GitHub and download the easy GUI updater app Pine64 Updater.
Install the app, and follow the screen prompts which requires connecting the Pinecil to the PC.
Connect the Pinecil to the PC by holding down the [-] before plugging the cable into the back of Pinecil. Keep holding down the [-] button for about ~10 seconds even after plugging in the cable.
Screen on Pinecil should be black/empty before proceeding or you are not in Flash mode. Repeat the steps if needed. If that does not work, flip the cable, try a new cable, or port or different PC, then see the Troubleshooting section.
The app will automatically fetch the latest stable Ralimâs IronOS firmware, pick the language desired from the drop down list.
The app also allows browsing to a local folder to install a specific beta firmware file or a boot logo that you may have downloaded or created.
If multiple firmware flashing is done, the app must be closed and reopened.
Option 1 for Linux, the simple command line DFU-Util can be used per IronOS instructions. Make sure to update to the newest DFU-Util to prevent issues that some members reported with older versions of DFU-util.
Option 2 works for both Linux or Mac. Download the alternative Pineflash GUI App for Linux and Mac.
Connect the Pinecil to the PC by holding down the [-] before plugging the cable into the back of Pinecil. Keep holding down the [-] button for about ~10 seconds even after plugging in the cable.
Screen on Pinecil should be black/empty before proceeding or you are not in Flash mode. If that does not work, flip the cable, try a new cable, or port or different PC, then see the Troubleshooting section.
PineFlash app will automatically fetch the latest stable Ralimâs IronOS firmware, pick the language desired from the drop down list.
Pineflash app also allows browsing to a local folder to install a specific beta firmware file or a boot logo that you may have downloaded or created.
Do not use the DC barrel jack while updating firmware or you may destroy your PC and Pinecil. Pinecil is designed to only use one power port at a time and never both at the same time.
To submit a feature request, or help Ralim enhance the code, create a ticket or start a discussion at Ralimâs IronOS
Ben (ralimtek) supports IronOS out of love for the IronOS creative open community. He volunteers countless hours coding, debugging, and enhancing IronOS with all the feature requests submitted.
One advantage of Pinecil (V1/V2) over other irons (i.e., Miniware) is you can not really brick them since Pinecilâs bootloader is in ROM. If there is a problem, just flash the firmware again or a different version. This empowers people to experiment and do forks of the main IronOS firmware without as much risk.
If you have Windows or Mac, you can use this GUI [https://github.com/pine64/pine64_updater/releases/ Pine64 flasher].
If you have Linux or Mac, use this GUI [https://github.com/Spagett1/PineFlash/releases/ Pineflash].
info
For Pinecil V2 model, Ralim has started work on this (reference). Please watch this ticket, give Ralim support and encouragement. This is all volunteer work.
This article is a list of convenient links to guides on soldering. Although itâs not directly related to Pinecil hardware, many PINE64 members ask for this kind of information in daily live chat. If you donât find something here, then try an Internet search as this is just a starting point for convenience.
General Formula: add 120°C to the melting point listed on the solder label, and adjust up/down as needed for different tasks.
Example: the solder says 220°C melt point, then 220 + 120 = 340 °C
One could also try these common working temperatures below, start lower and increment by 5°C until you get a comfortable working temperature (thicker wires & situations dictate more or less).
Common working temperatures if direct data for the solder can not be found:
# For Lead solder: 300°C - 320°C
# For No-lead solder: 350°C - 365°C
Another method is an Internet search to find a chart like below for your specific type of solder alloy:
Adding a small amount of solder to your tip before starting increases the thermal mass of the tip and could help instead of cranking the temperature super high (which causes other problems). See the soldering guides above for demonstrations of this in several articles and videos.
while opening your Pinecil will not necessarily void your warranty, all self-repairs are done at your own risk. Read everything in this section and related or linked articles to get a good idea of the procedure, and go to the Pinecil community chat if you desire advice/support from experienced volunteers. Self-repairs or modifications might void your warranty so proceed if this is not a concern. This information is for educational purposes only.
Pinecil V1 and V2 have slightly different schematics and have different MCU chips. Doing repairs often requires referencing the correct schematics or photos. The datasheets are also important to get information about the chips, and to order replacement parts. The schematics and known datasheets are all at the bottom of this article and linked in the contents table at the top. Chatting with other owners of Pinecil is encouraged as they have experience - already broke things so you donât have to (see Pinecil volunteer chat link here).
note
This is a new work in progress (WIP) started Feb. 18, 2023 which may be updated over time as volunteers have time to write up information. For sections that are missing, try asking in the live chat as a volunteer may have some clues to get you headed in the right path.
All schematics, datasheets for known common parts, and links to where to buy replacement parts are all in this article under Schematics and board data.
Refer to the correct section for V1 or V2 parts.
Which model do I have? The older V1 model has an all black handle with a blue silicone grip and was discontinued in July 2022. The new V2 model has a black handle with a green thumb grip and is the only model PINE64 and authorized resellers started selling after August 1, 2022.
Magnifying lamp or jewelerâs glasses with led light and good room light.
Photos/videos will help to chat with volunteers in the live Pinecil chat channel if getting clarification or troubleshooting.
Optional: mobile phone to take macro photos or video. A macro lens to take phone photos is helpful; there are cheap ones that simply clip on.
Possibly another soldering iron to do the repair, some flux, solder, and isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for cleaning the PCB. See [[Pinecil_Cases,_Stands,_Supplies#Soldering_supplies| this guide]] for some basic supply options.
Optional: better needle size probe leads for DMM makes things easier and are nice for electronic work.
It is recommended to take photos to help with reassembly.
Loosen the top tip screw (PH1) (top is the side with the screen).
Gently pull the tip out and set aside (let the tip cool down first or use protection to prevent burns).
Slide the rubber thumb grip off the front.
Remove the bottom-front screw (between the bottom feet (PH1)).
Remove the ground screw (longer m2x4mm screw next to the screen near the (-) button (PH1)).
Slightly pull the two halves of the case apart at the tip front end first, enough to get a fingernail or guitar pick between 2 parts.
Move the pick down the length of the split to loosen the bottom halfâs clips from the top half of the case.
Once loose, remove the bottom half by sliding it a little forward (it is retained by the top half at the DC barrel side).
Remove the screws retaining the copper tip contacts (PH000, M1.4 x 5).
Remove the copper tip contacts (note the orientation of the contacts & tiny tab hole).
Lift the PCB gently up from Tip end.
Remove the round copper ring contact from under the PCB, near the tip end of the handle (this is installed first before the PCB because it provides ground contact from the front of the Pinecil to the rear ground screw).
Remove the two small round buttons so they do not get lost.
Place the two round buttons into the two holes in the top half of the case.
Install the round copper ground ring at the tip end before installing the PCB.
Place the PCB board into handle at an angle, DC barrel end goes in first.
Lower the rest of the board into the case and align the PCB with the 2 contact screw holes.
Install the two copper tip contacts (note the small tab on the contact and the small hole in the PCB for it).
Orient the contact to align the alignment pin with the alignment hole next to the big hole on one of the big gold pads.
Install and gently tighten the PH000 screw until the clip is no longer loose.
Place the bottom half of the case into the top half by sliding the lip on the port side (side without the feet) of the bottom half under the arch of the port side of the top half.
Gently close the case by bringing the two halves together, paying attention to each clipâs alignment and ensuring the case edges align.
Install the short PH1 screw at the bottom of the tip side of the case.
Install the longer PH1 screw at the ground connection point at the top side of the case (between the display and the ports).
Slide the rubber sleeve on (larger ridge first).
Gently insert tip.
Gently tighten the top PH1 screw to retain the tip.
note
For normal operation of the iron, omission of the copper ring in step #2 does not impact operation. If you are working with ESD components, you need it in order to ground the iron tip via the earth screw at the back of the iron. It is recommended to keep this installed.
Sometimes, just updating to the newest firmware fixes issues as Ralim and team are very active in adding features and enhancements (see Firmware).
Some Troubleshooting information is also on GitHub Ralimâs IronOS (which is the firmware that is on the Pinecil). There are several hidden Debug tools in the firmware that also help with diagnosis.
Clean all new Tips (Cartridges) with 90%-99% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) especially the white end with the 2 silver contacts.
If you canât find the information here or it hasnât been written yet; simply join the volunteer run live Pinecil chat channel. Sometimes you can get a clue to the right path.
If itâs jumping wildly after reaching set temperature, this is also caused by using a low amp/volt charger that is below the 3amp minimum required for Pinecil (per manufacturer rating), upgrading to a 3.25amp/20V USB-C charger often fixes this (reference issue).
Some people might see a random spike while idle. Solution: update firmware, there are some ADC timing adjustments in IronOS 2.21+; itâs a good idea to keep your firmware updated to newest stable release (reference issue). This fix is included in 2.21+ release.
I see No Tip connected symbol randomly on new Pinecil: tip is installed and it heats up, but randomly I get no tip symbol. See #1 above, it is most likely the same reason, dirty contacts on the back of the cartridge/tip. follow the same instructions for Poor Contact Fix here. Reference ticket on Github.
How do I install the optional Hall Effect Sensor? See the Hall Effect Sensor article for installation; location is U14 on the PCB & in the Schematics. Reference schematics section also.
Help, I think I bricked Pinecil doing an update: no worries, itâs very hard to brick a Pinecil because of the way the firmware is loaded in ROM. Usually just flashing again with a newer or different version brings it back to life (see Firmware). This can be done even if you canât see your screen anymore.
My Pinecil keeps rebooting: change to a different charger or add a ground wire to your Pinecil ground screw (search for ts100 ground wire on a search engine). Also see the Power Supplies article. This could happen because of the way 2-prong no-ground chargers are made with no ground path for small current leakage. Also try to plug the charger into a surge protector strip (type that have 3-prong ground and plug the surge protector into a 3-prong grounded wall outlet). Try a different cable or flipping the cable over also.
Tip is glowing red hot. Unplug immediately, you have most likely a blown MOSFET, check that out, replacement parts in Datasheets below. Tip is probably damaged too.
My temperature display is way off and Pinecil is at room temerature: first, check the poor contact fix. Then enter the hidden debug menu and look for HAN C which is the internal handle temperature. This should normally be close to or slightly higher than the room temperature if the Pinecil tip is also at room temperature. Under load, the HAN C can go up a bit, otherwise when the tip is cold, the HAN C should be close to ambient. Check the hidden debug menu for HAN C or C Han depending on your version of IronOS. See IronOS Troubleshooting here, esp. about CHan and the Temperature sensor. If the reading is out of spec (very low/high), and reflowing/resoldering the Temperature sensor does not work, replacement might be needed.
Screen shows X symbol (no tip installed) and I have a tip installed. Remove the Tip screw, seat the tip all the way back, reinstalled the screw. See Tips and Poor Contact repair.
I see Thermal Runaway or Undervoltage messages on the screen. This is often caused by using a weak power supply that does not have a minimum of 12V-3amps and is not rated to work with Pinecil. Pinecil will stop heat to the tip and display Thermal Runaway.
TL;DR get a USB-C charger 20V 3.25 amps, PD 65W (best bang for the buck for good Pinecil performance) many available between $15-$25.
Detailed information on chargers can be found under Power supplies.
I plugged in the wrong kind of DC barrel charger, it was a not Center-positive pin and now the Pinecil wonât turn on: see Reverse polarity damage. Usually requires replacing the MOSFET (U13) and Buck Converter/Step-down (U8). See the datasheets for links to parts.
I hear a sizzling/crackle sound from my new Pinecil: this is usually fine and may disappear after a few days of use, see Hissing Crackle Sound.
Screen is black: first try to update firmware. Check out the IronOS troubleshooting guide here for possible issues. See the datasheets here at the bottom of this article for links to replacement parts. Repair method would be similar to ts100 screens of which there are many guides like this video. If the tip heats up, but screen is black, the OLED may have failed/burned out. If tip does not heat up, it may be something else. Sometimes just reflow/reheat the solder for the OLED screen fixes issues. Using OLED screen at lower brightness extends the life.
The sizzle sound will usually go away after a few days of use and heating up the iron. After wiping the tip contacts with IPA, heat it up a few times to 350 °C.
Ralim said, “there is usually a bit of noise when you first use it, and a slight hiss/pop noise from the handle and that is normal. depends a bit on exactly what batch of caps are in your unit. The Tip drive signal is AC coupled through a capacitor for safety, downside is that it means the firmware is hitting that cap with a square wave the whole time the tip is on. Once you have heated up the duty cycle, it drops off so itâs not as noticeable.”
Some members reported that after they opened their new Pinecil, wiped the PCB and tips gently with IPA, let it dry, all the sizzling noise went away. They also did a break-in of the new tips, bringing the temperature to 350 C a few times.
Video of similar crackle sound on the ts100 iron (donât have example of Pinecil, but itâs similar sound).
Most likely the tip (cartridge) is not making good contact (at the silver bands on the rear white end). Usually this issue goes away after a few days of use as the cartridge rubs against the internal contacts more. New cartridges could have factory residue on them that interferes with the R-tip reading.
To fix this issue quicker, wipe all new tips (cartridges) with a dry towel or 90-99% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) especially the two silver contacts at the white end (do not use water to wipe as it could get into the seam line on the white end).
With the Pinecil unplugged, remove and reinsert the tip a couple times and spin it a little inside against the contacts. Then plug it in and heat it up to 350 °C a few times for a couple minutes. These steps tend to resolve most new Pinecil or new cartridges causing flickering temperatures or “no-tip” icon displays randomly.
Always unplug Pinecil before swapping tips. Hot swapping is not a good idea, and for the V2 this could cause strange behavior as the V2 auto-detects tip resistance only on power-up or reboot.
Sometimes just disassembling and reassembling all parts back correctly and installing the 2 internal contacts with screws correctly also helps.
Poor contact could happen if the tips are not clean or brand new with factory residue or not making good contact with the internal clips inside the Pinecil. The two contacts inside might need to also be removed, wiped and reinstalled with the two screws (ensure the small metal tab on the clip sits into the small hole in the PCB).
See Pinecil Tips article for more details on testing.
Pinecil requires a center-positive DC power supply which most are, but some are reverse polarity and will destroy the electronics if used. If you plugged in a “center-negative” DC power supply, most likely the MOSFET and the buck converter are broken. This usually requires replacing the MOSFET (U13) and buck converter / step-down (U8). See the datasheets for links to replacement parts which is at the bottom of this article [[#Datasheets_for_Components| here]].
important
Check the polarity of the DC barrel plug before plugging in a random charger. Incorrect polarity will break the Pinecil. The video here shows how to check.
Reference the article on [[Pinecil_Power_Supplies#DC_Barrel_Power| DC barrel chargers here]], (i.e., laptop bricks) for appropriate USB-C and DC chargers that will work with the Pinecil.
Do this at your own risk, read everything in this section and related/linked articles, and go to the Pinecil community chat if you desire advice. An incorrect cut of the trace could render the Pinecil non-working.
Pinecil V1 has blue rubber. Newer Pinecil V2 has green rubber & Bluetooth LE chip
This modification is not for the V2 (sold after Aug 1, 2022 with green thumb grip) as the V2 already has 24V DC barrel charger capability.
If you have an older V1 model, then first upgrade to the newest firmware here before starting this modification. The PD debug menu was added to the firmware in 2.17 and other important fixes came later. Access to the hidden PD debug menu is necessary to assist with this mod.
See Ralimâs IronOS for how to use the hidden PD Debug here and check if your version of Pinecil V1 could benefit from the modification.
If PD-Debug menu says “No VBUS”, then stop here, you do not need the modification or any cut of the trace line, it will not benefit you because there is no connection to the VBUS already. If it says “w. Vbus” then continue. If you donât have a PD-Debug menu, then upgrade to the newest firmware first, see instructions above.
Some models of V1 came with the PCB already capable of 24V as the Pine Store made modifications to the PCB (not all batches of V1 were the same). Do the PD debug test first to see if the mod is not required.
See the February 2022 Community update here. The photo is incorrect in the article. It is not a before and after photo.
Photo shows two separate PCBs of Pinecil V1 made at different times; therefore, the trace is cut in a slightly different location depending on which one it looks like.
The PCB with 2 small via holes and is harder to cut in the correct location to avoid damaging the holes. This is called the “whalecil” in community chat (looks like a whale).PCB 1 style (left photo) is easier to cut the trace. Cut all the way across the trace and deep enough to cut the copper contact. PCB 2 style (right photo) is harder because the trace has to be cut without damaging the 2 via holes.
Donât plug in 24V until you first check with a USB-C PD charger that PD debug says No VBUS which means the mod is complete. If it still says W. Vbus, then the connection still exist. Cut a little deeper and clean the cut with some IPA (isopropyl alcohol) to remove any copper dust, dry it and check again. Taking a macro photo with a phone helps to examine the cut.
If a USB-C charger is not available, often a phone with a USB-C port is a PD type, and can be used like a charger to plug in and check the PD debug messages (unfortunately, a PC port is not normally “PD” and wonât give proper PD Debug).
If you want another set of eyes on it before you cut, post a photo of your PCB (near the Pinecone) on the Pine64 > [live Pinecil chat channel. Ask for a volunteer who has completed the 24V mod on a Pinecil V1 to assist. Not all chat people own a Pinecil even if they are in the Pinecil channel.
Instructions to install a hall effect sensor (HES) on the Pinecil V1 and V2.
The Hall Effect Sensor (HES) is an optional end user installed sensor that activates to put Pinecil to sleep when it enters a holder or stand. This requires a neodymium magnet attached to the stand. The closer the HES in the Pinecil is to the magnet, the more likely the HES will activate to enter sleep mode. This adds a feature to Pinecil that is often seen in high end pro irons.
Order a Hall Effect Sensor (SI7210-B-00 here), also at Digikey and Mouser.
Ordering 2-3 might be a good idea in case the first one is damaged during install (if all goes well, one could mail the extras to a friend or another Pine64 member in the community chat ;).
Jewelerâs magnifying glasses or magnifying lamp or a microscope is recommended as the SOT23 chip is very small.
Borrow a second soldering iron (this is when 2x Pinecils is a good idea).
Get some neodymium magnets, just two 8x2.7mm at 8:00PM and 12:00PM on the stand could be enough. Experimentation is needed. Start with just one small magnet and increase the number placed around the stand until 360° sleep is activated when the Pinecil hits the stand.
Reference [[Pinecil:_How_to_Repair#Schematics_and_Board_Data | Schematics are here]] (search for U14).
Updating to the newest firmware before installing is recommended, see the Firmware article. These instructions are for 2.18 or newer firmware.
The HES is located at the very front of the Pinecil, tip end, see PCB images here.
Once it is soldered, cleaned, and assembled, check the sleep menu, a new hall sensitivity option appears.
See this article on how to set up the sensitivity settings on the firmware menu (Ralimâs IronOS).
Once you change the Sleep menu > Hall sensitivity to what you like, then scroll back to the main screen in order for the setting to be saved and persist on reboot.
Note: IronOS firmware does not flash a setting change until one scrolls out of the sub-menu back to the main screen. This is to reduce the total number of flashes done as several settings might be changed in one section (number of flashes is not unlimited; most users will not encounter the maximum allowed flashes on normal use over years).
Try not to overheat the sensor while soldering as that could damage it and even cause a leg to fall off.
This is a small SOT23 chip. Tacking one pin on the 2-pin side helps to hold it in place before soldering the rest of the sensor.
It is recommended to solder this with an iron with a small tip instead of using hot air (depends on your experience with hot air). See photos below, use kapton tape to protect nearby components: the 3 via holes above the 3-pin side, and the NTC temperature sensor on the other side. If too much heat is applied, it could damage the pcb, and/or affect the I2C and cause screen corruption.
Apply generous flux to the area. If lead solder is being used, it is recommended to remove some of the existing no-lead solder that is already on the U14 pads.
After the HES is soldered, clean the area completely with 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and a soft toothbrush or small paint brush and dry before assembly. Air/hair dryer could be used to blow out some of the wet IPA. Not cleaning it well enough could cause some I2C noise on the screen. Try to keep IPA/alcohol away from OLED screens.
If the stand/holder is not metal, tape magnets near where the Pinecil enters the hole in the holder to test out good locations. Hot glue is another option.
When closing the handle, inspect that the the seam line is fully snaped closed; avoid pressing the screen.
[[Pinecil_Hall_Effect_Sensor| Hall Effect Sensor]]: add a sensor that activates with a magnet to put the Pinecil to sleep when it enters a holder or stand.
[[#Fasteners/Screws| Thumb Screws]]: switch tiny tip holder screw to an easy to use thumb screw.
This article applies only to the main Pine Store, pine64.com items that ship from their Shenzhen, China facility, such as the Pinecil soldering iron and PinePower chargers.
Not discussed in this article: big battery devices such as the Pinebook Pro, PineTab, PineNote, PinePhone and PinePhone Pro which all ship from Hong Kong (the PinePhone ships from Poland for EU orders).
Order Email: when the Pine Store receives an order, an initial email is sent out within one day. This email confirms your order was charged (check spam folders for ‘Pine Store’).
Shipping Email: after several more days, when the order is shipped, a second email is sent with a tracking number. This could take a week or two. Pine does shipments in batches, you get the tracking number faster or slower depending on when batch day is. In general, people report getting a shipping/tracking email within 5 days, just wait for this email (search emails for ‘Pine Store’).
If you donât get the first “order email” soon after placing the order, then contact the Pine Store here as your order may not have completed or been charged.
Cheap shipping (~$12): could take 2-7 weeks or more, this sometimes gets delayed in the customs department in your home country due to backlogs (some had 7 weeks mainly because it was stuck in their countryâs customs department for many weeks before being cleared to leave customs, especially during height of COVID and reduced customs staffing). Currently, members report about 2-3 weeks, as always it can be held up in the customs department of your country if you are shipping it from outside of your country.
Courier shipping: more expensive (~$25-$30), can take ~4-10 business days or more based on feedback from PINE64 members.
Note: resellers operate independently from the main Pine Store. They are in different countries and set all of their own procedures, shipping costs and options. Get all reseller shipping details for each store from their specific websites/chat tools/email.
If you see the message “outbound imports cancelled”, just wait. It is a poorly worded message. Members experience that it updates after 1-3 days to show a hand off from China Post to a USA facility. The message would be more clear if it was “outbound imports transferred/complete”.
If Pine Store does not ship to your country currently, check out one of the many legit resellers here.
Try emailing a few of the resellers, you might get lucky.
Consider that resellers probably donât want to lose money sending a package that doesnât get there because then the customer asks for a refund.
Keep in mind that the Pine Store is small with a limited number of staff.
Some major couriers have temporarily stopped shipping to some countries.
Customs paperwork for some countries is too difficult for a small business like Pine Store to manage.
If Customs laws change in some countries, Pine Store may have to move from cheaper shipping options to more expensive courier options.
Too many packages have gotten lost to some countries. Pinecil and other items have a low margin; lost packages have a great impact. Some resellers are more prepared to take the risks so that the Pine Store can stay focused on engineering new hardware.
When possible, the Pine Store leaves open the more expensive courier option instead of stopping all shipping to a country. Some friends try to do a group purchase to spread out the shipping cost for each person.
Pine Store is registered at Hong Kong/Singapore and is not a registered China company and therefore can not ship to China addresses (exports only) even though many Pine64 products like Pinecil are made and shipped from Shenzhen, China.
Pine Store can not sell on AliExpress (see above). All AliExpress items using the PINE64 and Pinecone logos are fake copies (see authenticity here).
For some countries people reported using a package forwarding company (unsure if safe or reliable, use at your own risk).
The PINE64 Mission is to get hardware into the hands of open source developers and tinkerers. Buying authentic Pinecils supports that mission (see this article).
In July 2022, all final stock sold out of Pinecil V1 (GD32VF103 mcu) at the Pine Store & all legit resellers. There are zero new authentic Pinecil V1 sold in the world after July 2022. Pinecil V1 was made in a black color with a light blue finger grip. PINE64 never made an all-blue Pinecil, and never used blue or red color boxes (those are fake copies with fake PINE64 logos and Pinecone).
Starting Aug. 2, 2022, only the new Pinecil V2 model with the new BL706 Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) MCU are made by PINE64 and sold at all authentic resellers. They are black with a green finger grip (see photos in the Picture section). The new model has anti-counterfeiting features. Authentic Pinecil using the newest official GitHub IronOS firmware, will successfully pass the Authenticiy Checker website. If a new Pinecil (post Aug. 1, 2022) does not have a BL706 chip, then it is a fake copy. If the AliExpress seller tries to show “CE certification” documents as some type of proof, those are all copied public info from the documentation page in the certifications section. PINE64 publishes those as they are the CE/FCC certifications for the stamps on the Pinecil. They are not proof of purchase from the Pine Store Ltd.
Presently, the V1 uses the normal length TS100 style tips (~8.0 ohms) until a firmware update enables manually switching the tip types. Check Github Ralimâs IronOS here for progress on this.
Unplug before swapping tips as the V2 automatically detects the tip resistance at boot-up and it is safer.
Typically, lead solder uses a working temperature of ~300°C-320°C and no-lead solder ~350°C-365°C (check the temperature charts in the soldering guides or google it for your specific solder type, it varies). Always start lower than needed and increase ~5°C at a time until you reach a good working temperature. If you want your tips to last longer, use the lowest temperatures you can comfortably work at. Thicker wires, etc., may need more (adjust).
The open source firmware may allow the use of temperatures past the manufacturer limit for tips, but that doesnât mean you should. That said, people have reported using the boost feature at 5-15 second burst to >430°C and have been perfectly fine (TS100 and Pine64 tips are readily available at reasonable prices and some people prefer convenience of higher temperatures and accept they might replace tips more frequently as a trade-off).
If the tips are not too expensive, some keep spare tips and boost to high temperatures freely for convenience, and simply replace the tip when it loses the plating or the tip fails (common sign of tip failure is tip plating is gone, has pit holes, or a multimeter measures OL infinite ohms across the 2 silver contacts on the cold end of the tip).
Check out this Soldering Guide article for more details on best practices for use and maintenance of tips.
Remove the screw on top, then remove the cartridge. Clean new cartridges/tips with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove any factory residue before installing (avoid strange behavior). If you have no IPA, use a dry clean towel, especially the white end with the two silver contacts (do not use water; it could get into the seam line on the white end). This often resolves issues with glitchy temperatures or random no-tip symbol from poor or dirty electric contact [https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS/issues/1601 reference].
Clean contacts with IPA
. Then install the cartridge/tip, re-install the screw on top, and heat the tip a few times to 350 °C for a couple minutes.
. If you donât have a multimeter, then after you initially heat the tips a few times to 350 °C. Then change the temperature to the correct range for the solder you purchased and check if it melts solder (add a little solder to the tip end also before storing it).
. If you have a multimeter (dmm) and have an issue with the cartridge/tip, then you can measure when the tip is cold (room temperature and unused a couple hours). Set dmm to ohms and the correct range, and measure the 2 silver contacts on the rear white end.
. Warning: warm tips change the measurements (measure only when cold and unused for a couple hours).
Short tips could be ~6.2-6.5 ohms
Normal length tips could be ~7.8-8.3 ohms
If the tip measures OL (open loop) it is defective. Also a tip that is way off spec, e.g., 10 ohm will cause strange behavior on temperature readings.
If you measure when itâs even a little warm, the ohms will be much higher; this is normal and how the cartridge/tip works.
A thermocouple is integrated into the end of the tip itself; advantage is every new tip includes a brand new thermocouple and itâs a more accurate measurement of the temperature.
Pinecil tips are considered newer tech style. This is more accurate compared to older style Irons where the thermocouple is in the handle and much farther from the end of the tip.
Pine64 Short tip packs are lower resistance/ohms which means higher performance and better ergonomics. Many professional irons have shorter tips for more control while soldering.
ST-B2 conical short tip included with the V2 Pinecil
The shorter tip is designed for higher performance and requires more power than longer traditional TS100 tips
Recommend using minimum of usb-C PD65W-3.25A-20V or higher voltage charger when using Short tips (short tip draws more power than longer tips because of the lower ohms).
For example with a PD65W-20V charger, the maximum watts with a standard 8 ohm tip is 50W, whereas the max watt with a 6.2 ohm tip is ~64 watts (watts/volts calculator).
Heating formula: P = IV = I^2 * R = V^2 / R (⧠watts = ⧠faster heating)
Regular Length TS Tips: Left= Fine set, Right = Gross set. Both TS sets have ~8.0 ohm tips and are the standard length similar to other TS100 style tips.
important
Currently, Pinecil V1 original uses the normal length ts100 style tips and not the newer Short tips designed for V2. Ralim is working on adding a feature to the firmware to allow people with the older V1 Pinecil to manually switch a profile setting which allows toggling between Normal Tip and Short tip profiles (adequate power supply must also be used min. PD65w 3.25A, 20V recommended). Check Github Ralimâs IronOS for progress information. Always unplug when swapping tips.
